Mohini Bhatnagar profiles the not-so-well-known tourist spots of Kumaon, in a series about Uttaranchal, the mountain state.

Uttaranchal conjures up different visions for different people. For some it means mountains capped with sparkling snow, forest glades sighing with eternally cool breeze, flower bedecked mountain sides and gurgling clear streams flowing with ice-cold water. For others Uttaranchal means saffron clad sadhus, clanging temple bells and a pathway to moksha or salvation.

Known as Uttarakhand, when the region was part of Uttar Pradesh, Uttaranchal has for centuries been a place of pilgrimage, associated more with religion and spirituality than with travel and tourism. This is because this region has the famous Char Dham or the four of the holiest Hindu pilgrimage destinations - Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamnotri - as well as the Sikh pilgrimage sites of Hemkund, Lokpal, Nanakmatta, Meetha-Reetha Sahib and Piran Kaliyar. But, away from the well-trodden paths, there are parts of Uttaranchal that are relatively unknown but offer tremendous scenic beauty rivalled only by the best that Kashmir or Himachal Pradesh have to offer.

Uttaranchal extends from the northern end of the Gangetic plain right up to Tibet and offers a nearly endless panorama of scenic wonders. The state comprises two main regions - Kumaon towards the east and neighbouring Nepal and Garhwal to the west bordering Himachal Pradesh.

Kumaon is characterised by clear blue skies, lush forests, clear lakes and rainbows while Garhwal has tall, majestic snow-clad peaks, quaint retreats and torrential rivers. The latter has for long been the more frequented destination, because that is where the pilgrimage centres are located.

The Kumaon region has some lesser-known but intensely beautiful hill stations like Bageshwar, Binsar, Kausani, Munsyari, Almora, Pithoragarh and Ranikhet. Apart from the Char Dham, Garhwal has the breathtaking Valley of Flowers, and the ski resort of Auli, as well as a number of other small but beautiful resorts.

The nearest airport to Kumaon is Pantnagar, which is 71 km from Nainital, and the closest railhead for Kumaon is Kathgodam.

Locations in Kumaon:

Bageshwar
Situated on the confluence of the Gomti and Saryu rivers, Bageshwar is located at an altitude of 960 metres (3,150 feet). It is 90 km from Almora and is famous for its Lord Shiva temple. Bageshwar is flanked on the east by the Bhileswar mountains and on the west by the Nileshwar mountains. It has Suraj Kund to its north and Agni Kund to the south, and is of great religious and historic significance. The Nilaparvat, situated between the rivers Saryu and Gomti, is said to be inhabited by all the 33 crore gods of the Hindu pantheon.

Binsar
Binsar, once the summer capital of the Chand Rajas in the seventh and eighth centuries, is a beautiful hill resort. It is located at a distance of 26 km from Almora. Binsar offers a majestic vista of the Himalayas - a 300-km stretch of famous peaks including Nanda Devi. Surrounding hillsides abound in alpine flora, ferns, hanging moss and species of wild flowers. The entire region is now a wildlife sanctuary and is home to a host of animals, from panthers to deer.

Dharchula
Located on the banks of River Kali, at an elevation of 915 metres (3,000 feet), Dharchula is an important campsite along the Kailas-Mansarovar, Chota Kailash and Narayan Ashram route.

Kaladhungi
A small hamlet 35 km from the famous Corbett National Park, this was Jim Corbett's chosen place of residence. Today, his home is a comprehensive museum, housing souvenirs, relics and mementos related to his life and exploits.

Kausani
A breathtakingly beautiful hill station nestled in dense forests and glowing hills, Kausani offers a panoramic view of the snow-covered peaks of Nanda Devi and Trishul. Its ethereal sunrise and wide view of the Himalayan range have attracted thousands of visitors to this place. Eulogised by poets and philosophers, it offers sightseeing, history and complete relaxation. Mahatma Gandhi is said to have fallen in love with this place and his legacy has been preserved at the Anasakthi Ashram. Kausani is also the birthplace and home of Hindi poet laureate Sumitra Nandan Pant. Apart from breathtaking views, Kausani offers blissful peace and tranquility. The crisp air is laden with the scent of pines. Tea gardens and pear orchards dot the landscape while the summer months see a profusion of wild flowers in the valleys. The hill station itself is perched on a narrow ridge of the Pingnath Peak, overlooking mountain vistas, while the rivers Gomti and Kosi flank the town.

Some good trekking tracks lead into the Himalayas from Kausani, such as the Adi Kailas trek and the Bageshwar-Sunderdhanga trek. The area is a camper's paradise. In spite of its spectacular beauty, Kausani remains an unspoilt town where you can retreat for a quiet sojourn at any time of the year.

Getting there: Kausani is located 53 km from Almora and 410 kms from Delhi (about 14 hours by road). The closest airport is at Pantnagar, 180 km away. The nearest railhead is at Kathgodam, 142 km, with trains arriving from Delhi. From Kathgodam you can catch a bus or take a tourist taxi.

Best time to visit: You can visit Kausani at any time of the year except during the monsoon, from end-June to September. The best time to be in Kausani is in summer - April to June - when temperatures range between 11°C and 26°C. The winters are cold - temperatures are between 2°C and 14°C - and there are chances of snow. Carry light woollens for summer and heavy woollens for winter.

Accommodation: The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam has a tourist guesthouse here. In addition to the Forest Rest House and PWD Bungalow, there are other lodges and hotels. Room tariffs range from Rs 300 to Rs 1,500 for a double room. Decent accommodation is also available at the Anasakti Ashram.

Munsyari
This is the easternmost hill district of Uttaranchal, bordering Nepal in the east and Tibet in the north. Located at an altitude of 2,135 metres (7,000 feet), Munsyari is 66 km from Jauljibi and 127 km from Pithoragarh. This is a relatively new tourist destination in Kumaon, and it is known for its beautiful waterfalls. The drive to Munsyari is beautiful; during spring, the forests are ablaze with rhododendrons and the mountains echo the calls of birds like the whistling thrush, wagtail and hawk cuckoo, falcon and serpent eagle. Animals like the leopard, mountain bear and the musk deer also inhabit the jungles of Munsyari.

The five peaks of Pancha Chuli look like five chimneys. The Mahakali and its tributaries, the Goriganga, Ramganga and the Dhauliganga, meander through Kumaon to merge with the Ganga in the plains. The Goriganga, which is wonderful for river rafting, flows by Munsyari, draining the 18-km Milam glacier, which merges with the Balati glacier and the Pancha Chuli snowfields. The valley of the Gori is a trekking paradise and there are a number of fabulous treks from Munsyari to Milam, Namik and Ralan glaciers and through the narrow Johar valley that traces an ancient trading route to Tibet. Jeep safaris go to Madkote (22km), Baneanani and Jaulijibi (66 km), past some spectacular mountain scenery and waterfalls like the Birthi Falls (31 km). The Balati Farm is a popular trek from where you can get a magnificent view of the Himalayas and Maheshwari Kund is a serene lake surrounded by marshes teeming with life. In winter, the alpine slopes of Khaliatop and Betulidhar in the higher reaches offer some splendid skiing opportunities.

Getting there: Munsyari is 612 km from Delhi and 261 km from Kathgodam. Buses and taxis are available from Kathgodam. Almora and Bageshwar are the two main stops on the route where you can refuel your gas tanks.

Best time to visit: The months of March to June and mid-September to October are great for visiting Munsyari and for trekking. The monsoons are best avoided. The summers are mild - light woollens and rain protection is sufficient. Heavy woollens and windproof clothing are called for in winter.

Accommodation: Besides a Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Tourist Rest House and the PWD Inspection Bungalow, Munsyari has a few private hotels, resorts and campsites with Swiss-cottage tents. Milam village and other halts on the trekking routes have basic accommodation, such as PWD guest houses.

Ranikhet
Literally meaning queen's field, Ranikhet offers an excellent view of India's second-highest Himalayan peak, Nanda Devi, which has an altitude of 7,816 metres (25,643 feet). Ranikhet has the very best that the Himalayas have to offer, in terms of lush green forests, majestic mountains and a variety of wildlife. A year-round destination, the environs here are green, peaceful and attractive.

A cantonment town known for its ancient temples Ranikhet is situated in the northern part of Uttaranchal in the Kumaon hills. It is located at an altitude of 1,824 metres (6,000 feet) above sea level and is 59 km from Nainital and 50 km from Almora. It has alpine weather, with mild summers (April-June) and cold winters (November-February). The monsoon rains come from July to September and it snows in winter.

Ranikhet and the regions around it were under under the rule of local Kumaoni rulers till it came under British rule. The British developed Ranikhet as a hill station for their troops and established a cantonment in 1869. It is still a cantonment town.

Some of the places to visit in Ranikhet are the Kumaon Regimental Centre, Museum and Memorial. Tourists can take a walk around the town and soak in the ambience. The Jhula Devi temple and the Chaubatia orchards are within walking distance south of the main Mall Road. Bhaludham, three km away, is an artificial lake. Four km north of Ranikhet on the main road to Almora, is Upat Kalika, which offers a panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges and has a nine-hole golf course.

Getting there: The nearest airport to Ranikhet is in Pantnagar (Nainital) and there are regular flights during the summer. The nearest railway station is Kathgodam. Ranikhet is well connected with all important cities by road. The main bus station is located near the main tourist office. The bus service from Ranikhet to Nainital (3 hours), Almora (3 hours), Kathgodam (4 hours) and Kausani (4 hours) is frequent.

Best time to visit: The best time to go to Ranikhet is from April to September. Winters are generally cold and snowy.

Accommodation: Being an established hill station, Ranikhet has plenty of hotels and guest houses catering to all budgets. Places to visit: Nainital is just 59 km away. Nainital is among Uttaranchal's oldest and most famous tourist spots known among other things for its Naini Lake, surrounding picnic spots, clubs, malls and now shopping arcades.

Dwarahat, 38 km away from Ranikhet, was once the principal seat of the Katyuri Rajas. It is full of ancient sculptures. Sitalakhet (35 km), Tarikhet (8 km) and Khairna (22 km) are some of the other places worth visiting.

Almora
Located 50 km from Ranikhet, Almora is famous for its health resorts and panoramic views of the Himalayan ranges. Most visitors come here to regain their health and vitality. Almora occupies a central position in Kumaon and can be used as a base from where one can visit nearby places such as Binsar, Kausani, Sitlakhet and Someshwar.

Another location worth seeing is Jageshwar, which has an ancient temple considered to be about 1,000 years old and the most lyrical example of the architecture of the 10th-century Katyuri dynasty.

Pithoragarh
A small valley about 5 km long and 2 km wide in Kumaon, Pithoragarh is often called the 'miniature Kashmir' as it is located in the midst of spectacular Himalayan peaks at a height of 1,645 metres (5,400 feet). It has more than its fair share of cascading waterfalls, splendid glaciers, natural reservoirs, serene lakes and noisy flamboyant rivers. Once the bastion of the Chand rulers, the town has a number of temples and forts belonging to that era. It is set in a valley popularly known as Soar and lies in the centre of four hills of Chandak, Dhwaj, Kumdar and Thal Kedar. It stretches in the south to Jhulaghat and is demarcated by the Kali river adjoining the barren peaks of hills in Nepal. The town is snuggled in the folds of four kots; Bhatkot, Dungerkot, Udaikot and Unchakot.

Accommodation is available at the Tourist Rest House. For the more adventurous, alpine cottages and log huts could be a more appropriate choice. Also available are catering services, round-the-clock hot water supply and warm hospitality.

Next: Garhwal