It's got everything Ooty can offer, minus the madding crowds, says Mohini Bhatnagar.

Would you like to visit Ooty as it must have been a quarter century ago, minus the crowds and the commercialisation? If so, Coonoor is just the place for you. With its cool misty mornings and quaint walking tracks winding their way through verdant green tea gardens, Conoor is an unforgettable experience. It's just 19 km away from Ooty but, what's wonderful about Coonoor is that it hasn't yet degenerated into a commercial hot spot like Ooty. It's the ideal resort if you want to escape from the 'madding crowd'.

The word 'Nilgiri' means blue mountains. The Blue Mountain range constitutes the present Nilgiri district of Tamil Nadu. The average height of the peaks in the Nilgiri hills is around 2,290 metres (7,500 feet), the highest peak being Doddabetta, at a height of 2,623 metres (8,605 feet). Most hill stations in the Nilgiri hills are at around the same altitude as their Himalayan counterparts - Manali and Darjeeling - and higher than Nainital or Shimla. More important, they are equally cool in summer.

Situated on the eastern side of the southern extremity of the Doddabetta range at an altitude of 1798 metres (5,900 feet), Coonoor is the second largest hill station in the Nilgiris, but still retains an old world charm. This makes it attractive to visitors of all kinds. Those who love bright lights and fun-filled, activity-packed vacations can drive down to Ooty, while those who are looking for a quiet and peaceful time can just relax and meander along the tea gardens or visit some of Coonoor's scenic locations.

Originally inhabited by the Toda tribe, members of which can still be seen wearing their traditional brightly-coloured shawls in and around the town, Coonoor is divided into an upper and lower town. The lower town has an interesting market selling traditional handicrafts, apart from the usual fruits, vegetables, fish and poultry.

According to historical records, a British gentleman 'discovered' the hills of Coonoor in 1819, and built a bungalow here. His guests were enamoured by the cool climes of the hills and soon, the British elite came up in hordes and established the numerous hill stations of Tamil Nadu. Soon, tea plantations came up and a railway line was constructed, to make it easier for people to access the hill station.

Coonoor is also a trekkers' paradise. Trekking pamphlets can be obtained from the Nilgiri Wildlife and Environment Association (NWLEA). Beginners can hire the services of guides who have a sound knowledge of the tracks around. Surrounded by small hills, it is also perfect for bird watching. The area boasts a large variety of bird species like cormorants, pipits, thrushes, parakeets, skylarks, the Nilgiri verditer, bulbuls, thrushes, babblers, larks, cuckoos and robins, in addition to raptors like vultures, eagles and owls. Then there is the must-have experience of a ride on the narrow-gauge 'toy train' connecting Mettupalayam with Ooty, which passes through Coonoor. The trip provides some breathtaking views of the Nilgiri hills.

Coonoor has a famous tea and coffee festival during the winter, and a fruits and vegetable show during the summer, both of which can be quite enjoyable.

Excursions
Sims Park: At the heart of Coonoor is Sims Park, situated in a deep ravine on the northern side of Coonoor Railway Station. Inspired by Japanese gardens, Sims Park was built over 130 years ago, and covers about 12 hectares of land. It is divided into eight major sections landscaped on sloping land, and contains over 1,000 species of plants. The winding tracks on the higher slopes of the park are most attractive and picturesque.

Law's Falls: Named after Lt Colonel Law - who constructed the Coonoor Ghat - the 180-foot-high Law's Falls is located about five kilometres below Coonoor, on the Mettupalayam road. There are vast stretches of undisturbed sholas; it is a paradise for naturalists. Dolphin's Nose: A gigantic rock with a unique shape, Dolphin's Nose is about 12 km from Coonoor, jutting out of the face of the hillside. It exposes a vast panorama, which encompasses Catherine falls. Lambs' Rock: Lamb's Rock has beautiful carvings, and is a must-see spot on the way to Dolphin's Nose. It is located on a high precipice, 6 km from Coonoor, and offers a view of tea and coffee plantations as well as the plains of Coimbatore.

Lady Canning's Seat: A small house 9km from Coonoor, it commands a panoramic view of the Coonoor tea estates and the plains. The Droog: Tipu Sultan's outpost is now a picnic spot located 15 km from Coonoor. It stands 6,000 feet high (1,800 metres), overlooking the plains. Getting there involves a three-kilometre walk. Kotagiri: Just 16 km from Ooty and at an altitude of 1,950 metres (6,400 feet), Kotagiri dates back to 1819 and is the oldest hill station in the Nilgiris. It was once a British hill resort.

Getting there
Coimbatore is three hours away by road, and is the gateway to Coonoor. There are daily flights to and from Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram. Those who fancy a train ride can take the 'toy train' between Mettupalayam and Ooty to get to Coonoor. Coimbatore is also accessible by train from most metros.

There are regular bus services from Coimbatore, Ooty and Kotagiri. Though Coonoor is beautiful and cool at all times it is best avoided in the monsoon, when it rains heavily. The best time to visit Coonoor is in October and March.