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In
today''s high strung and tension-filled world we all need
a retreat where we can refresh our spirits and throw out
the accoutrements of everyday existence. Munnar,
in Kerala, offers one such retreat where you can definitely
re-charge your batteries.
Situated at a height of over
1,700 metres above sea level, this place is a nature lover''s
paradise. If you seek a sense of peace be sure to find
it here. This is where you can fill your holidays with
quiet moments and take in vast expanses of green that
play hide-and-seek with the clouds which keep descending
on thearea. This is where you can savour the peace and
quiet (you would never get in a concrete jungle!) within
the cool stillness of the several tea gardens that dot
the skyline.
One of the ways of approaching
Munnar is from Thekkady. The distance from Thekkady to
Munnar is approximately 110 km through some of the narrowest
roads that hug the hills. As the car veers from side to
side in its quest up the hill, you see only hills and
the valleys alternating their position in line with
the turn of the steering wheel.
Once every now and then,
the calm scenery is broken by the quaint and small villages
and towns with tongue-twister names -- Anakarai, Nedunkandan,
Sanathapuram and the like. These hamlets seemingly spring
up from nowhere and break the monotony of the undulating
greenery forcing you to wonder "How do people live
in such far flung places and what do they do to keep themselves
occupied?" Truly, time seems to stand still at these
places and, even a good speed of 40 kph seems excruciatingly
slow.
That the boundaries of
Munnar are fast approaching is announced very loud
and clear. The dense forests give way to a great expanse
of hills covered with neatly laid out tea gardens.
Yes, Munnar is the haven
of planters -- having been discovered nearly a century
ago by pioneer planters who came to India. The tea and
cardamom estates dominate the entire landscape -- and,
indeed, the entire life of Munnar. In particular, Tata
Tea Ltd. is, like God, omnipresent at this place -- with
nearly every acre of land being Tata Tea property and
every third resident working for the company. Munnar has
several sidelights to see and mentioned below are some
of them.
Pothamedu View
-- situated on the highest point of the Kannan Devan
hills and a well-known lookout point -- is one such
sidelight. It is quite unannounced and does not have thetrappings
of a lookout point that one is generally used to. You
creep onto it and can quite easily miss it if you are
not careful and have not clearly asked for directions.
The lookout point is imposing
indeed. Backed by hard grey rocks that rise menacingly
into the sky, it overlooks a vast unending expanse of
verdant green. To a city inhabitant it is like being teleported
to a totally different planet.
The silence is only broken
by the distant roar of the Attakadu water falls
-- the mist from which rises up to come into view at Pothamedu.
For as long as the eye can see, there is only peak after
peak after peak of unending mountains which seamlessly
merge with the clouds to form a hazy skyline. In between
the only colour you see is green, the only air you breathe
is pure.
The fact that you are
so high above sea level is very evident here. Even as
the winter chill bites, you can feel the heat of the setting
sun seep into you -- a sun that seems so close to you
that you want to reach out and touch it.
The setting sun adds its
own charm to the entire scenery. The rays of the setting
sun peeping over the mountains add a golden hue over the
green. As if a wand has been waved, the setting sun brings
about a sea change in the region. The cold and nippy breeze
dies down, the occasional chirping of the birds ceases,
the moving leaves drop dead and become motionless, the
roar of the waterfall seems less ferocious and more distant.
Then, all of a sudden, after a brief interlude of grey
twilight, a thick envelope of darkness descends on the
region and shuts off everything.
The
Attakadu Waterfalls are at Pullivasal, where
the largest tea-processing factory of Tata Tea is also
situated. The HeadWorks Dam on the Pullivasal River,
just 6 km before the falls, was inaugurated in the early
1940s by the Dewan of the state of Travancore. This dam
also serves to connect the Kannan Devan Hills and the
Pullivasal ranges. In the early 1920s, much before this
dam was constructed, the British had bored a tunnel through
the Pullivasal range of hills at the end of which they
had constructed the Pullivasal Hydro Electric works
-- Kerala''s first electricity generating station.
The Eravikulam National
Park, formed in 1978, is situated atop Rajamalai
-- quite literally meaning ''king of mountains''. Along
the route to the park -- which again is through narrow
winding roads that is a landmark of Kerala -- you come
across the Nayamakkad Waterfalls, one of the many
waterfalls that dot the Kerala landscape. The falls begin
at a cavernous hole in the mountains and cascade in torrents
over several layers of rocks before, surprisingly, coming
to a tame end. The water from these falls irrigates the
tea gardens that cling Rajamalai.
As you reach the national park
the air becomes thinner and you see the clouds more clearly.
The park is home to the Nilgiri tahr, langurs, sambar,
gaur and the lion-tailed macaques. Of all these species,
the special attraction at the Park is the Nilgiri tahr
orthe ibex. In the local language the ibex is also
called the ''varayadu'' -- as, in Tamil, ''varai'' means hard
rocky mountains and ''adu'' means goat, thus implying ''goats
that live and thrive on hard rocky mountains''. The speciality
of the ibex is that it is a rare species and only
5,000 such animals exist in the world today -- of these
about. 3,000 are found at Rajamalai. You can reach the
ibex only after a 5-km walk from the head of the park.
Another 12-km walk leads
you to Anamudi -- which at an imposing 2,700 metres
above sea level -- is the highest peak in south India.
It is only the brave that completes the 12- km walk to
Anamudi.
Rajamalai is also known
for the blue-red orchid -- neela kurunji -- that
blooms every twelve years and transforms the barren rocky
sides of the mountain into an attractive blue-red carpet.
The Chinnar Wildlife
Sanctuary, also set up in the early 70s, is another
attraction. Situated on the border of Kerala and Tamil
Nadu it is home to several herds of wild elephants, bison
and langurs, besides containing several hundreds of sandalwood
trees --all of which can be seen from the watch tower
constructed specially for this purpose. Animal watching
is very much like bird watching and fishing -- it requires
a lot of patience and "just-sitting-there" till
the animals show up.
The most interesting part
is the drive from Rajamalai to Chinnar. As you descend
the heights of Rajamalai, you drive straight into the
clouds, which hang low over the mountains for the better
part of the year. These clouds make driving a herculean
task -- what with near-zero visibility, narrow roads and
steep drops on both sides. For the really brave who would
like to experience life on the razor''s edge, the following
is recommended:
The visit to the Chinnar
sanctuary must be made in the late afternoon so that the
return journey into Munnar city is after sunset. With
a heavy cloud overhang and absolutely zero visibility
in the thick envelop of darkness you cannot make out the
road in front of you. You leave your fate in the hands
of the skilled driver, who is driving with his head out
of the window -- only so that he can make out the road
and where to turn
one wrong turn and
you
may land up in a heap of metal scrap.
Along the way you also
cross Marayoor where, recently, the relics of a
new stone-age civilization have been unearthed. The place
is also known for its tribal culture and several sandalwood
processing factories.
The Matupetty Dam
-- one amongst the many in Kerala -- was completed in
1953. With a total length of 297 feet and a catchment
area of 105 million cubic feet, the lake created by this
dam provides a picturesque picnic spot. This dam is the
site for yet another power generating plant in Kerala.
The route from the Matupetty
Dam to the Kundalle Dam --yet another historic
site -- provides two interesting diversions. The first
is the Indo-Swiss Project on cattle breeding and
fodder production. A joint venture between the governments
of Kerala and Switzerland, this project seeks to develop
high milk yielding milch cows.
Spread over 100 acres
of land, this project provides a welcome break in the
topology. The green carpet of grazing grounds clearly
stand apart from the unending rows of tea gardens of Tata
Tea. Here high quality cows are bred and these cows give
between 15-20 litres of milk every day. Fed on a good
diet of fodder these cows are looked after a crack team
of vets to ensure that they remain healthy at all times.
The second interesting
diversion is the Echo Point -- situated below the
Arrivakkad Tea processing plant of Tata Tea. If you were
to stand below the factory and shout at the thicket of
trees across the Matupetty Lake, you will clearly hear
a loud and resounding echo of every word or sound you
utter.
What is really intriguing
about this place is the fact that the echo can be heard
only if you face the trees in a perpendicular direction
and not if the sounds are directed at the trees in an
angular direction.
From Echo Point you move
on to the Kundalle Dam. Also called the Setuparvatipuram
Dam, this 850-foot long dam was constructed over 100 years
ago during the 25th year of the reign of Sri
Chithira Thirunal, the maharaja of the state of Travancore.
With a reservoir capacity of over 250 million cubic feet
of water, this dam is, indeed, an engineering marvel that
has endured for more than a century.
Besides the above sidelights
there are several points one can see, but most of these
are several hours drive away from Munnar. The above sights
would take all of a day and a half to cover in speed and
about three days if you were to spend your time leisurely
at each of these places. After that even if you stayed
back only to sit and stare at nature around you it is
time well spent as you would never get the same serenity
and pleasure in a city like Bombay or Delhi or even Bangalore.
Unfortunately, the scars
of modern day living seem to be creeping on to Munnar.
The logging licence granted to the public sector Hindustan
Newsprint Ltd has increasingly seen the forests being
denuded of its green trees. One only hopes that the company,
for every tree felled, is planting a new sapling that
will one day grow to become as big as a tree that was
felled - thus maintaining the ecological balance of the
place.
Further, the government''s
desire to set up Asia''s first high-altitude sports training
centre at Munnar has seen an army of over 150 trucks emptying
their contents on to the centre of the town -- contents
that are extracted from the hillsides, leaving ugly, gaping
patches on the hillsides. While leading citizens are thinking
of approaching the relevant authorities to clamp down
on this madness one remains unassured about their ability
to succeed given today''s political environment.
But, despite these minor
blips on the radar screen, Munnar is, indeed, the
jewel of south India.
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